Words by Yvonne C Mtengwa

My South African sojourn began, as so many do at the start of each year, where as  a travel writer I return to discover what else is new to my eyes in the vibrant embrace of Cape Town. After a 9.5-hour flight from Dubai, I looked forward to my 14 week-long trip through parts of the Mother City’s pulse and surrounding peninsula.

For four glorious nights, I immersed myself in the city’s electric energy, my days a carefully curated dance between two of its most iconic hotels. The first, a grand dame overlooking the V&A Waterfront, offered a symphony of maritime activity and mountain vistas from my private balcony. Each morning began with the salty kiss of the ocean air, a perfect overture to explorations of historic neighbouring districts, bustling markets and eateries. Then, a shift to a chic boutique hotel nestled in the heart of the CBD, a haven of contemporary design and understated luxury.

It was with this gentle sense of anticipation that I embarked on the next leg of my journey, trading the urban buzz for the tranquil allure of the Cape Winelands. My destination: Spier, a name synonymous with heritage, sustainability, and an almost mythical sense of rootedness. A fully equipped Mercedes Benz picked me up, with the drive from Cape Town a gradual unveiling of scenery. I’ve done this drive a million times before, but each one always rings quite special, as the urban sprawl gives way to verdant vineyards stretching to the horizon, framed by the majestic looming mountainscape.

With roaring laughter shared between the driver and I, accentuated bylight-hearted lessons on the history of the Winelands and what makes them famous the world over, it wasn’t too long before weturned off the main road and onto the tree-lined paved lane leading to Spier Wine Farm. The air felt different from the city here – certainly softer, infused with the scent of earth and nature’s invitation.

A gift presented from arrival

I love a good welcome. My arrival at Spier was less a check-in and more of an embrace. The reception, housed in a beautifully restored historic building, exuded a warm, welcoming atmosphere, with hues of green, beige and tan furnishings unveiling the nature-inspired decorative theme.

The staff, their smiles genuine and their demeanour unhurried, seemed to instinctively understand the desire for rest that had drawn me there. I love Cape Town city’s buzz, but there’s something about the winelands that drifts your mind away from the cares of the world.

After a brief tour of the main restaurant, the sprawling lawns, some tit-bits shared about what I should add to my itinerary during my stay, we headed off to my accommodations, a spacious and elegantly appointed suite for two, complete with a fully equipped kitchen and dining area, a large living room with an entertainment system and garden-facing patio through a set of glass double doors. Mine was a sanctuary of comfort, overlooking a tranquil woodland of ancient trees and well-manicured lawns.

Spirit elevating moments await one at Spier Wine Farm

Spier, I quickly discovered, is not merely a wine farm; it is an ecosystem of experiences, a microcosm of sustainable living and mindful indulgence. Its unique elements are woven into the very fabric of its existence, starting with its profound sense of history. I was keen on experiencing as much as I could during my two-day stay, and so after enjoying a sumptuous poolside lunch, I indulged in a relaxing hour-long massage at Spier Spa during on my first afternoon in. But that was not without first having taken my sandals off and let the feeling of verdant grass embrace my feet as I strolled across the gardens surround the main building where guests meet for food, wine and connection.

The Farm-to-Table Ethos: From Soil to Plate

Few moments bring people together like hearty dishes made with love. The “farm to table” philosophy at Spier is not a trendy tagline but a deeply ingrained practice that forms the very core of their culinary offerings. I met Executive Chef and Head of Food & Beverage at SpierChef Craig Paterson, who took me through Spier Wine Farm’s take on dining and curated experiences around food. From dishes served at Vadas Smokehouse & Bakery, to the much-lovedSpier Picnicsand wine tastings paired with innovative food at Spier’s Tasting Room, I can now best describe every interaction with food at Spier, as a commitment to provenance, freshness, and sustainability, driven by the belief that good food starts with healthy soil and ethical farming.

This ethos begins literally at their doorstep, with the Spier Food Garden located on the farm serving as a thriving hub of organic produce. I learned more about the farming practices during my second day, where my morning began with a 10,000 step walk through the estates and on the shores of Spier Dam, right to the greenhouses where a diverse range of seasonal vegetables, herbs, and even edible flowers are cultivated without the use of chemical fertilizers or pesticides. That morning, I witnessed the early arrival ofthe farm’sgardening staff, some tending to the crops, exchanged pleasantries with them and other guests equally enjoying their morning doses of first light.

This dedication extends beyond the garden gates. Spier’s commitment to regenerative farming practices means their livestock, including their renowned Farmer Angus grass-fed cattle and free-range chickens, are also raised sustainably and on estate grounds.  This not only ensures the welfare of the animals but also contributes to the fertility of the soil, creating a truly circular system. Having stayed and dined at Spier Wine Farm, I attest to the tasty eggs enjoyed at breakfast and the succulent cuts of meat served in their restaurants to being a direct result of this mindful approach. You not only see the difference with every plated meal but taste the difference that the availability of fresh ingredients from the farm makes to your dining experience.

Then there is the Journey Through Award-Winning Spier Wines

Of course, no visit to Spier would be complete without delving into its vinicultural heart. My wine-tasting experiences were education in themself, a journey through their diverse portfolio. Unlike some more formal tastings, Spier’s approach felt approachable and engaging asexpert sommeliers guided me through the nuances of their award-winning wines, sharing stories of the terroir and the winemaking process. I particularly enjoyed the unique wine and chocolate pairing at the Spier Tasting Room, where each wine was thoughtfully matched with delectable chocolate made at Spier, elevating the tasting of both the wine and the chocolate to a true culinary adventure.

A Sanctuary of Sustainability From Wine to Flora

The commitment to sustainability is another defining characteristic that truly sets Spier apart. This isn’t a superficial eco-branding exercise; it’s a deep-seated philosophy that permeates every aspect of their operations. Take for instance the fact that 100% of Spier’s black and grey wastewater is recycled using a centralised wastewater treatment plant installed in 2007. The environmentally friendly plant has the capacity to process up to 1 million litres at any given time and to produce 50 million litres of clean water annually. It would take the Eerste River 350 kilometres to purify what the plant cleans in a day. That is impressive!

Additionally, Spier is committed to rehabilitating the riparian systems that flow through the farm – this includes the removal of alien vegetation and the planting of indigenous riverine species that consume much less water. The Far played a critical role in establishing the Stellenbosch River Collaborative (SRC), a multi-stakeholder partnership forum aiming to restore health to the Eerste River catchment.

Wine-lovers would be interested to note a nugget on sustainability around wine too. During the winemaking process, Spier measures how much water it uses in the cellar to create 1L of wine. This has been reduced to 2.6L in the financial year July 2022 – July 2023. Such notable milestones, merged with effective cleaning programmes, investment in staff training, water saving devices, use of high-pressure machines and barrel steamers are all initiatives that reduce the use of water in Spier’s cellar.

All vineyards on the Spier farm are watered with drip irrigation. Continuous logging irrigation probes monitor soil moisture and provide data on how much water each vineyard and pasture needs, thereby ensuring the optimisation of Spier’s irrigation management and further wastage prevention.

Spier is also committed to conserving and expanding the indigenous veld that can be found on the farm. Since the Spier Nursery was established in 2007, over one million bulbs, 102 957 trees and shrubs and 6 983 succulents have been propagated and re-planted across Spier. The added benefit? Re-planting of this precious flora has attracted a wealth of bird and animal life back into the area.

Beyond the Earth: Art as an Integral Element for Promoting Local Talent

One noticeable embellishment is how Spier’s landscape is a living canvas for contemporary South African art. Art is as much a part of Spier’s soul as exceptional food and wine is. The Spier essence is about celebrating the notion thatart sparks ideas and insights. It fuels the imagination, with Spier taking an active role in fostering initiatives that impact people. Art can change people – and people change things. Spier revels in the idea that collections of contemporary art stand as living legacies of South Africa’s heritage, with all its complexity and challenging narratives.

Furthermore, Spier actively hosts exhibitions, such as the annual Spier Light Art, which transforms the farm into an immersive nocturnal experience, showcasing site-specific light installations. They also run the Spier Artisan Apprenticeship Programme, which has produced magnificent mosaic artworks dotted around the property, adding another layer of visual richness and showcasing skilled local craftsmanship.

Beyond the Vineyard: Other Experiences

Beyond the wine, Spier offers a rich tapestry of activities that cater to every whim. For those seeking a deeper connection with nature, the riverside walks and cycling trails offered peaceful escapes, which in fact allowed me to fully immerse myself in the serene landscape at dawn and at sunset.

Evenings at Spier were a continuation of the day’s gentle rhythm. Dinners at their various restaurants were gastronomic delights, each offering a distinct culinary experience but all united by the same commitment to fresh, local ingredients. Whether it was the relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere of the farm kitchen or the more refined setting of their fine-dining establishment, every meal was a celebration of flavour and provenance. The quiet hum of conversation, the clinking of glasses, and the soft glow of the setting sun over hotel’s grounds created an atmosphere of pure contentment for me. It was abuzz in its own way, but equally peaceful and a reminder that time slowed down is time well spent.

A celebration of indulgence across the board

My stay at Spier Wine Farm was too short, and one that must be repeated with my children in tow, largely because of the balance between lifestyle moments, rest and educational immersion. After the exhilarating whirlwind of Cape Town, Spier to me offers a sanctuary of ultimate rest and indulgenceand is a place where time in a robust itinerary seemed to slow down, where every breath felt deeper, and where the connection to nature and history was palpable.

If asked to round up in a few sentences what made Spier Wine Farm and my stay at Spier Hotel one for my books, I’d say it was the unique blend of heritage, sustainability, exceptional food and wine, and genuine hospitality that created an experience that transcended the ordinary. I left Spier not just refreshed, but deeply nourished, carrying with me not just memories of beautiful landscapes and delicious wines, but a renewed sense of peace and a profound appreciation for a place that truly understands the art of living well. It was, without a doubt, the perfect, near mid-point to my 14 days in the Cape, leaving me wondering if any other establishment in the Winelands could top my experience during this circuit.

To learn more about Spier Wine Farm, the hotel and its host of experiences, visit https://www.spier.co.za/