titleWilderness Chikwenya: Why Zimbabwe’s Untamed North is the Ultimate Frontier for the Soul

Wilderness Chikwenya: Why Zimbabwe’s Untamed North is the Ultimate Frontier for the Soul

Words by Yvonne C. Mtengwa

There is a specific frequency to the air in Mana Pools, Zimbabwe. It is an inexplicable hum, perhaps partly inspired by the literal vibration of insects under the canopy of Albida trees, or the low-frequency rumble of elephants. For my filming crew and I, it was entirely a feeling of being exactly where nature intended us to be. We were on the job, to learn, to connect and to document what we would take away from our experience as content creating explorers bearing an innate sense of adventure.

Experiencing any one of Wilderness Destination’s camps across Africa is a delicate reminder that luxury is no longer defined by what we have, but by where we dare to go. Our crew of five arrived at Robert Mugabe International Airport in the early hours of a midweek morning, clad in earthtone outfits as if to proudly announce that we were on our way into one of Zimbabwe’s most remote safari territories. Bags checked in and a safety briefing completed shortly thereafter, our 12-seater charter aircraft lifted off over Harare, steadily drifting towards our land’s northernmost territories on the shores of the majestic Zambezi River.

The Geography of Isolation

Wilderness Chikwenya Camp is situated on a sprawling private concession on the eastern boundary of the Mana Pools National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Geographically, the camp occupies a prime position at the confluence of the Sapi and Zambezi Rivers and sits within a 7,000-acre private sanctuary, overlooking a vast, open floodplain and the broad, shimmering ribbon of the Lower Zambezi. To the north, the horizon is dominated by the dramatic purple-hued mountains of the Rift Valley escarpment in Zambia, creating a cinematic backdrop that makes the camp feel like it’s perched at the edge of the known world.

The Architecture of Integration

Inside what we viewed to be a wild theatre upon arrival; the camp’s seven tented suites achieve something rare: they disappear into the landscape on which they sit. Perched on low wooden decks and linked by pine walkways, the tents are swathed in soft creams and beiges, designed to mirror the riverine forest of mahogany and albida trees rather than compete with it.

The camp’s aesthetic is more than “sophisticated bush”. Rest was found individual tents featuring four-poster beds as the center piece, draped in white and beige coloured linens.  Free-standing baths and outdoor showers looked out over the floodplain and watering hole right beyond the ledge of my deck, from which I would watch elephants and their young frequently pass by for a quick drink. Waking up here isn’t about an alarm; it’s about the blue-tinted light filtering through the canopy and the realization that an elephant is quite literally browsing just meters from your canvas wall, or the call of the wild as animals usher in the dawning of a new day.

The Pulse of the River: Tiger Fishing on the Zambezi

While Mana Pools’ magic is often associated with the park’s famous walking safaris, Wilderness Chikwenya’s private status offers a liquid dimension to the adventure. To be on the Zambezi at dawn, rod in hand, is to understand the river’s power. One member of our group was an avid angler, and ever so keen to share with us what excites him about fishing in Mana Pools and the Lower Zambezi escarpment specifically. I learned on one sunny afternoon on board one of Wilderness’ boats set aside for fishing and the enjoyment of sundowners, that whether you are a seasoned angler or a novice, the “catch-and-release” philosophy ensures the thrill remains for generations to come.

A Human Connection in a Wild Land

We often speak of wildlife, but it is the people who anchor the experience. The staff at Wilderness Chikwenya are the custodians of this wilderness. From the guides who read the forest like a book to the team that greets you with a chilled towel and a genuine smile after a hot afternoon, the service is a masterclass in warm hospitality.

One gets the sense that there is a shared pride among the Zimbabweans who run this camp, welcoming and hosting both local and international guests.  They don’t just serve; they share. They share the story of “Chikwenya,” named after a legendary female ruler, and they share a commitment to a land that is as fierce as it is fragile.

The Challenge: Venture Out and Discover Mana Pools

In my line of work as a travel writer and PR strategist, places like Chikwenya remind me of what an awesome privilege it is to periodically trade the rooms of my industry for the rooms of the wild. What an incredible privilege it is to encourages friends and family alike to stop viewing the wild as a documentary to be watched. Zimbabwe’s territories, raw, real, and revitalizing are always calling. Should you be looking for an off the beaten destination for your next encounter with the wild corners of Zimbabwe, consider stepping off the paved path of everyday life in the city, and into the stillness of Mana Pools. The Zambezi is waiting.

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