Words by Sarah Kingdom
Mother nature was generous when it came to the Seychelles. The idyllic archipelago of islands is scattered across the Indian Ocean like a necklace of precious stones. So beautiful is this cluster of islands, that early explorers thought they’d stumbled upon the Garden of Eden. Emerald green rainforests blanket the mountains and dazzling turquoise waters, lap stunning shorelines of white sand that are lined with swaying palm trees.
Touching down on Mahé, the largest of the Seychelles’ 115 islands, we knew we’d arrived somewhere magical. Eager to dive into the heart of the island, we set off for Morne Seychellois National Park, that covers a fifth of Mahé Island. Taking the Morne Blanc hike, known for its steep climb and incredible views, we followed a trail that snaked up through dense forest and towering fern trees. Under the cool shade of the forest canopy, colourful birds flitted through the undergrowth, their calls echoing through the air. Climbing higher, we left the forest and emerged onto a viewing platform. Sweeping views of the ocean lay before us, sparkling in the morning sunlight. Breath-taking panoramic views of the west coast of the island, and an azure sea that stretched endlessly toward the horizon, dotted only by distant islands.
Once back down at sea level it was time to explore Victoria, one of the world’s smallest capital cities. This is a city you really can’t get lost in. Home to just 25,000 people, 90% of the country’s population, Victoria is well worth a wander – 18th and 19th century French and British architecture, a rainbow-coloured Hindu Temple, the Sir Selwyn-Clarke Market, with its stalls of seafood, tropical fruits and souvenirs, and the silver-painted colonial clock tower inspired by Big Ben, which didn’t actually work for the first 96 years of its life! When the humidity got the better of us, we retired to the leafy Botanical Gardens. We checked out some of the 280 plant species, including the endemic Coco de Mer plants – the much-loved and somewhat suggestively shaped, botanical icon of the Seychelles. We paid a visit to the pen of resident giant tortoises, took a glance at the spice grove and checked out the patch of rainforest that a mass of fruit bats call home.
We had a table booked for lunch at Marie Antoinette Restaurant. With its wood and iron colonial-style architecture, steep red roof, polished wooden staircase, wide verandas, shuttered windows and lace tablecloths, the restaurant is a slice of Seychelles history. Established as a restaurant in 1972, the signature Creole Menu is a well-guarded family secret that hasn’t changed much inmore than 50 years. We dined on some spice-infused Creole favourites – parrotfish fritters, grilled red snapper in yellow curry sauce, chicken curry, tangy mango salad, pumpkin chutney, and steaming white rice, all washed down with a chilled Seybrew beer. Having just seen the bats in the Botanical Gardens though, we weren’t brave enough to try the curried fruit bat we spotted on the menu.
At the end of a day spent exploring the Mahé’s busier north, we retreated to the quiet southern peninsula and our villa at the Four Seasons Resort Seychelles. Our villa was perched on stilts and tucked into the hillside that overlooked Petite Anse Bay, the best swimming beach on Mahé. A cool ocean breeze floated up the granite hillside from the beach and into our room, while our private infinity pool was just what we needed for a refreshing dip. From our verandah we gazed out over the bay below, a tiny comma of pure white sand, lapped by aquamarine waves – we felt like we were floating above the entire world.
Four Seasons has partnered with WiseOceans, amarine conservation organisation, to preserve the waters of Petite Anse Bay. After breakfast we wandered down to the beach, and after chatting with the resident marine biologist about the resorts marine discovery programme, we donned mask, snorkels and fins and headed out in to the water. Swimming towards the rocky point at one end of the bay, clouds of bright vibrant fish were everywhere – big and small, long and short, spotted and striped. Butterflyfish, surgeonfish, pufferfish, parrot fish, angel fish, even the occasional octopus. Streamlined stingrays, clumps of colourful coral, anemones with their resident clown fish, a vibrant underwater world that the Four Seasons is working hard to protect.
Having soaked up plenty of vitamin ‘sea’, it was time for a visit to the spa. Perched on the highest most point of the property, the Four Seasons spa has mesmerising views. On arrival I was drawn towards the floor to ceiling glass windows and could see down over the resort and out across the shimmering water. Scents of lemon, peppermint, coconut and tropical flowers filled the air as I was whisked off for a thoroughly rejuvenating and restorative massage.
Our stay at the Four Seasons was everything we could have hoped for, memorable meals in remarkable restaurants, incredible underwater encounters, a sublime spa, breath-taking views. We were sad when our stay came to an end, but with so many far-flung islands to choose from, we’d decided it was time for some island hopping.
Next stop was the blissful Platté Island, a tiny emerald speck in an ocean of blue. 130km south of Mahé the island is home to the Waldorf Astoria Seychelles. After a quick flight we were touching down in a luxurious island paradise, where the only sounds to be heard were the lapping of waves on the shore, the wind rustling through palm fronds and overhead, the calls of swooping seabirds.
The Waldorf stamp of opulence was everywhere; from the lavish villas to world class restaurants and the spa with its sophisticated, therapeutic menu. Luxuriousbedroom suites dotted the perimeter of the island, each carefully set back from the oceanfrontand each featuring a dramatic fan-shaped roof, that paid subtle homage to the hawksbill turtle that lay their eggs on the island’s beaches every year. Folding glass doors lead out to a deck, a private pool, and our pathway to the beach. Early in the morning, hundreds of Lesser Noddys and Sooty Terns chattered in the palm trees overhanging our room. On morning walks around the perimeter of the island we spotted baby sharks and stingrays, that skimmed through the shallow waters. At the end of every day we sat on the warm sand of the beach and watched as the sun sank towards the horizon. Flocks of seabirds, silhouetted against an orange and pink sky, flew towards the island, preparing to roost for the night. At night time, walking barefoot back from dinner, the blanket of stars overhead was nothing short of magical.
From thousands of stars in the sky, to a five-star experience on land, Platté Island was where we truly felt the magic of the Seychelles. Thanks to the fact that the island has barely been inhabited before, save a handful of workers from its previous life as a coconut plantation, Platté Island is a natural paradise. Hundreds of hawksbill turtles nest here annually, and at the right time of year guests can witness newly hatched turtle poking their heads out of the sand and making their dizzying crawl, on tiny flippers, all the way to the water. The island is ringed by reef, and the house reef is home to numerous stingrays, manta rays and small reef sharks. The underwater seagrass meadows here are some of the best preserved in the Indian Ocean, perfect for year round turtle grazing, and there’s a dedicated marine conservation centre, with a fulltime marine biologist, to monitor and preserve all this natural wonder.
Departure day came and after a short flight we were back on Mahé. We really weren’t ready to leave, so for a one last taste of the islands we called in at Takamaka Rum. Rum was brought to the Seychelles by the British Navy, around the middle of the sixteenth century and for years nearly every family in the archipelago has had its own unique concoction of herbs and spices that they blended to make their own rhum arrange. Nowadays, Takamaka distillery has perfected the art, and for the last 22 years has been producing a range of Seychellois Rums, blended with local fruit and spices extracts, that captures the spirit of the islands in every sip. We got lucky and had a behind the scenes tour, sampling them all, before wobbling our way to the airport and pouring ourselves onto our flight home.
Whether planning a tropical beach stay in the Seychelles, or perhaps contemplating a combination of a safari with some sand,the bush with the beach, Mahlatini Luxury Travelhave been putting together African travel itineraries for over 20 years and can plan a visit with just the right amount of adventure and relaxation. https://www.mahlatini.com/
