Words by Yvonne C Mtengwa
In the heart of Cape Town’s design-driven Old Biscuit Mill Precinct, in the space once home to Africa’s foremost fine-dining restaurant, The Test Kitchen Fledgelings offers a contemporary culinary destination where globally-inspired cuisine is served up with a simple goal: transform lives and shape brighter futures.
At the restaurant’s generous invitation, I was elated to have the opportunity to finally experience what fine-dining aficionados will fondly remember as The Test Kitchen by chef Luke Dale Roberts, arguably the flagbearer for Cape Town’s ascendant restaurant scene. I was to learn that as with most dining and hospitality establishments affected by the Covid-era shutdowns, doors closed here too for the final time in September 2021. But Dale Roberts saw not an ending, but a new opportunity, which today reveals a distinctive dining experience with a hugely impactful story that forms its foundations. Out went the multi-course degustation experience that had made The Test Kitchen famous worldwide, and in came a fresh look, revamped menu and a bold new mission. Like a phoenix, from the ashes flew up The Test Kitchen Fledgelings.
Upliftment in its truest from, one serving at a time…
“At the heart of it, The Test Kitchen Fledgelings is both an upliftment project and restaurant that focuses on the mentorship of young individuals – our Fledgelings – who often come to us with absolutely no experience in a kitchen, restaurant or bar environment,” explains Dale Roberts.
From the start, the philosophy at The Test Kitchen Fledgelings has been to offer people with passion and perseverance an opportunity to train for a career in the restaurant trade, either in the kitchen or out on the floor. While trained chefs are encouraged to strike out into new roles in the restaurant industry, many choose to stay at The Test Kitchen Fledgelings or move to other kitchens in Luke Dale Roberts’ portfolio of restaurants.
“With any new Fledgelings we’re not looking for experience, we’re looking for attitude,” says Dale Roberts. “We look for those people who are hungry to learn, hungry to grow. And then we give them the space and the mentorship to do that.”
Today, three years after opening, that mentorship now comes not only from Dale Roberts but from Fledgelings who have worked their way up through the kitchen to become accomplished professional chefs in their own right. Every morsel of food served was art on a plate and the palate, a celebration of the amalgamation of fresh, locally sourced ingredients and creative culinary prowess. “It’s been so rewarding to see some of the people who started with us knowing very little about a restaurant kitchen, learn new skills and hone their craft to the point where they can now teach others starting in much the same position,” says Dale Roberts. “It’s a cycle that works. We take people from all walks of life and give them skills, a trade and a sense of dignity.”
From pots and pans to running the pass
And Head Chef Nathan Clarke is the perfect example of someone seizing the opportunities on offer at The Test Kitchen Fledgelings.
Raised in a challenging home environment, in an impoverished corner of Cape Town, Clarke first joined The Test Kitchen in 2014 as a sculler; a humble beginning to what would become a stellar career in the kitchen. With enormous dedication and hard work, Clarke worked his up way the ranks from sculler to finish as demi chef of The Test Kitchen.
And when Covid closed the doors of The Test Kitchen, Clarke was the perfect choice to lead The Test Kitchen Fledgelings. “It’s been such a pleasure to work with Nathan over the last decade,” says Dale Roberts. “He comes across as quiet and understated, but underneath he’s just buzzing with energy and ideas. He brings his own style and palate to the kitchen, which is just brilliant when we’re knocking ideas around for new dishes. And because he’s worked his way up through the ranks, he’s really earned the respect of all the other cooks in his kitchen.”
Loading: Seasons of delicious!
And with Clarke at the pass The Test Kitchen Fledgelings has certainly hit its stride, recently showcasing a fresh summer menu that displays the depth of talent in the kitchen, tapping into local flavours and Dale Roberts’ global experience.
Take the classic Scots dish of Cullen Skink; here given a bold ‘Fledge’ twist with notes of curry oil, fennel and saffron lightening the palate. Local rock lobster is plated with a seafood raviolo atop a fragrant Thai-style butternut broth. Bruschetta showcases kudu bresaola, hand-cured in the kitchen, while classic confit duck leg gets a local turn with lentils and naartjies. Seasonality comes into play too this summer, in the heirloom tart of slow-roasted tomatoes, aubergine and zucchini dressed with a pine nut and olive salsa.
These are just some of the highlights, but Clarke refuses to single out a signature dish.
“They all have to be bangers!” says Clarke with a laugh. “Every single dish has to be great. Even if you’re ordering the wagyu burger with fries, which people love, it’s got to be the best burger you’ve ever tasted.”
With Clarke focused on integrating complexity into each dish, there’s a firm focus on perfecting the finer details from in-house stocks and pickles to hand-made pasta. “Apart from making the flavours of the dish that much better, I make sure that everything we do in the kitchen is a teaching moment,” adds Clarke. “It’s an opportunity to learn something new or practice a skill. That’s part of why we’re here, and it’s how we make sure our chefs keep getting better, all the time.”
The vibe that is Test Kitchen Fledglings
And from the moment you step through the doors, it’s clear that The Test Kitchen Fledgelings is unlike any other upmarket dining destination in the city.
There are no starched aprons here. No ostentatious cutlery or fawning service. Instead, the music might be low-key amapiano, and don’t be surprised if the waiters break into a little dance on their way to your table. It’s slick service with a side order of authentic character and charisma. In each dish, plating is contemporary without uncalled-for complexity, as Clarke ensures that precise flavours in perfect balance take precedent over foams or fuss.
It’s a thread that runs throughout The Test Kitchen Fledgelings, serving up inspired global plates while letting the flock of Fledgelings spread their wings and stamp their own Cape character on one of the city’s most memorable dining experiences.
TTK Fledgelings is situated at The Old Biscuit Mill, Woodstock, Cape Town and open Monday – Saturday for dinner 18h00 to 22h00 and Thursday – Saturday for lunch from 12h00 – 13h30. For reservations or more information call 021 447 2337 or visit www.ttkfledgelings.co.za
